Sunday, April 14, 2019

South Bend Heavy 10 (10L) Build

So, with the Heavy 10 Lathe Headstock I purchased to put on my junior bed, after realizing I'd made a mistake and bought an under drive headstock that wouldn't work with the Junior I had, I knew I'd need to just build me another lathe.  This one would be tough because I had to buy a lot of pieces from eBay sellers and then assemble them into a hopefully-functional lathe.  It's a lot of money to throw at a hope, but I'd done it before with the car.

With the headstock, I had to then purchase :

  • Lathe bed
  • Lathe bed feet and adjusters
  • Spindle
  • Spindle Pulley
  • Spindle Bull Gear
  • Spindle drive gear
  • Spindle thrust bearing
  • Spindle thrust (outboard) bearing and lock nut
  • Back gears
  • Chuck (still not purchased)
  • 5C adapter for the 10L spindle
  • Face plate
  • Reverse tumbler assembly
  • Banjo
  • Idler gear
  • Gear box drive gear
  • Gear cover
  • Headstock hold down bolts
  • Quick Change Gear Box
  • Lead screw end holder
  • Lead Screw
  • Apron (and gears)
  • Saddle
  • Cross slide
  • Cross slide gib and screw
  • Cross slide hand wheel and screw
  • Compound base and hold down pins/set screws
  • Compound slide
  • Compound slide gib and screw
  • Tailstock base
  • Tailstock hold down clamp
  • Tailstock
  • Tailstock ram
  • Tailstock lead screw
  • Tailstock dial
  • Tailstock hand wheel
  • Tailstock ram spring
  • Tailstock lock
That's a pretty big list.  The "good" thing about this is I can clean up the parts and paint them before assembly.  I started with a 4-foot bed (a little more space over the Junior would be nice).  I didn't get that until late March - and immediately stripped down the bed and feet, scraped it clean (and into specifications) and masked it off to paint.  The bed had serial number "9272RKL14".  The serial card gives :


This is a lathe manufactured March 11, 1957 that had a regular clutch for the power cross feed.  It was shipped on April 12, 1957, but then shipped again on June 24th, 1959 to Grimes Mfg. Co. in Urbana, Ohio.  Grimes Manufacturing Company was started by Warren G Grimes (you know, the guy who invented the navigation lights we see on all the aircraft) in the 1930s, and later purchased by Honeywell.

The lathe itself is a heavy 10 Large (the "L" in "RKL") 10x4 "Toolroom" lathe with undercount drive.  It came with a quick change gear box on a 4' bed.  I got it out of California.  The model is CL8187AB (listed in the Vintage Machinery catalog).  Catalog number is CE2801D.  Gear box is DTG106R, and originally included collets, a collet rack, micrometer carriage stop, and a taper attachment (no threading dial).  For the sale, on June 10, 1959, it was changed to a toggle cam clutch before being delivered.

The lathe bed came with a saddle, and I picked up the compound base and slide from the same seller along with a lead screw for the bed.  He did not have the compound base screws - those were ordered on eBay - nor did he have the cross slide (also ordered off of eBay).

The tailstock was interesting in that someone sold it cheaply on eBay (if you call $60 cheap) because they couldn't get the ram screw, ram, and a drill chuck apart.  That was joyous.  I think the seller didn't realize it's a left-handed ram screw, once I got the screw out.  It had been modified for a hand-lever instead of a hand-wheel.


It was a short and quick stripping/cleaning/scraping of the tailstock.  I then masked off the tailstock and painted that up.  I needed a tailstock screw, so I used the current tailstock screw to measure the surfaces, and then ordered a chuck of left-handed, 1/2" ACME screw threaded rod.  I turned it between centers to get the threads off, then Loc-tite was added to the shaft and a piece of steel was put over the shaft and also pinned.  Unfortunately, I turned the features down BEFORE connecting it to the threaded rod - if you have to do it, turn the features down AFTER you anchor it to the threaded rod.  Luckily, I found out that the features I had turned were the wrong size, so I had to put it back on the lathe between centers and turn it down, so it all worked out.





I got the tailstock painted and re-assembled, and it works excellent!  It was time to work on the cross slide (I had ordered a cross slide from eBay).

I tracked down on eBay a compound slide gib, and from another seller I picked up the compound screw, dial, and hand wheel assembly.  I could not find a gib screw.  I do not have a rotary broach, so I needed to find a gib screw, and ended up taking a chance at a gib screw from an 11" lathe.  Note to self, the 11" lathes used a 5/16-18 gib screw, while the heavy 10's used a 1/4-20.  Still, I turned it down to get the screw head the right size, cut the threads off to get down to 1/4", then put a 20 pitch thread on it.  Works like a champ!

I cleaned the headstock, and masked it off.  I was able to get it painted, but have yet to install the headstock parts I'd ordered.

At this point, I have the carriage/saddle/cross slide/compound slide cleaned, painted, and assembled, the tailstock/parts cleaned, painted and installed, and the headstock ready for parts.

So, I started on the gear box, but I'm having a difficult time removing the tumbler shaft because someone peened over the taper pin holding it in place (probably why I got it for so cheap on eBay) :


I thought I'd have to drill the taper pin out - but I didn't.  A friendly suggestion over on the hobby machinist website (https://www.hobby-machinist.com - and that's not a paid endorsement, though I probably should be paying to endorse that group) pointed out a simple heat up on the cast iron and give it a good whack should loosen it up enough to release it.  I'm going to have to back this up now, as that's exactly what happened.  Don't head it up too much, though, as if it gets too warm too quickly, the cast iron could break.  Note, because I couldn't reach in with a punch, I used my broken ones as "spacers", and gave it a good whack with another punch against that one.




Once the tumbler shaft out, I was able to dismantle the gear box, paint it, and re-assemble it.  I was able to pick up reproduction badges from eBay (I believe the guy who makes them is trying to get out of that, and I don't blame him at all).  I stamped the model number into the new name plate, the bed length, and added it to the gear box.





At this point, I knew I needed to start making a stand so I could lug the thing around.  It's getting brutally heavy, and I don't want to assemble it only to try and lift it onto a stand.  So, a few trips to Home Depot to grab some (I know, some will call this insufficient material) 1.25" square tubing with a 1/16" wall thickness.  I measured a few things up on the lathe base, made some cuts, and started welding :



The most painful parts were the kerf cuts to get the bends, and getting the right angles (14 degrees to get the foot spread for stability) and also those angled cross braces on the back end.  Those all interconnected at the middle in a lot of weird angles (so that the horizontal cross braces in the middle could be level to turn into a shelf and also a motor mount).  I really need to get through this, as the lathe (over the oiled surfaces) is now starting to grow spider webs.


I was finally able to transfer it over to the new stand after a few weeks' delay because of a humanitarian trip.  I was able to bolt the bed to the stand, the headstock to the bed, and the gearbox (and lead screw) to the bed as well (though the gearbox went on first).  I had to piece the headstock together (back gears, spindle, etc is all installed), and I'm missing three screws - one that keeps the back gear lever from over reaching, and two that pin it down from underneath.


I started working on the collet closer I'd picked up :




I believe I'm missing a few parts, but I might be able to build the parts I'm missing and have it back online, we'll see.

Sunday, April 7, 2019

Morse Code Cheat Sheet

I whipped up a morse code cheat sheet today because of a format I had seen that made it easy to translate from morse back to text. Start at the top and work down when added dots/dashes are added, and you have the character. The PDF is available on a google drive.
MORSE-TO-LETTERS

E

T
••
I
•—
A
—•
N
——
M
•••
S
••—
U
•—•
R
•——
W
—••
D
—•—
K
——•
G
———
O
••••
H
•••—
V
••—•
F
  •—••
L
  •——•
P
•———
J
—•••
B
—••—
X
—•—•
C
—•——
Y
——••
Z
——•—
Q
     
•••••
5
••••—
4
•••——
3
  ••———
2
      •————
1
—••••
6
      ——•••
7
  ———••
8
————•
9
—————
0

NUMBERS
1•———— 6—••••
2••——— 7——•••
3•••—— 8———••
4••••— 9————•
5••••• 0—————
LETTERS-TO-MORSE
A•— J•——— S•••
B—••• K—•— T
C—•—• L•—•• U••—
D—•• M—— V•••—
E N—• W•——
F••—• O——— X—••—
G——• P•——• Y—•——
H•••• Q——•— Z——••
I•• R•—•   
73Best regards CSCall sign (used to request a call sign) PXPrefix
88Love and kisses DEFrom (or "this is") Rreceived as transmitted (origin of "Roger")
AAAll after (used after question mark to request a repetition) DXDistance (sometimes refers to long distance contact), foreign countries RPTRepeat please/I repeat
ABAll before (similarly) FMFrom RSTSignal report format (Readability-Signal Strength-Tone)
ADRSAddress FWDForward SFRSo far (proword)
ADSAddress III say again SIGSignature
AGNAgain KInvitation to transmit SKSilent Key (a deceased radio amateur)
ARNo Reply Expected KNOver; only the station named should respond (e.g. W7PTH DE W1AW KN) SVPPlease
ASWait LIDPoor operator (Licensed I*Diot) WWords
BKBreak (to pause transmission of a message, say) MSGPrefix indicating a message to or from the master of a ship concerning its operation or navigation WAWord after
BNAll between NNo; nine WBWord before
CYes; correct NILI have nothing to send you WCWilco
CFMConfirm NRNumber WDWords
CKCheck OKOkay WXWeather report
CLClosing (I am closing my station) PLSPlease ZZulu time i.e. UTC
CQCalling ... (calling all stations, any station) PPRPaper   
CQDAll Stations Distress (Used Before SOS to Let All Operators Know of Distress) PSEPlease