Alarm Switch Installed

Well, it's amazing what you can accomplish when you have a little time.  I was able to install the alarm lock cylinder into the fender (wires, lock retainer, and gasket), and I was able to get the hood hinges in place and connected to the body and the hood.

I need to figure out how to adjust the hood at this point, and then I can install the hood support (which I received - thanks, Corvette Central!), and then finish plumbing the carburetor.  That would leave simply the headlights, steering column reassembly, electrical testing, door glass adjustment (need to get the battery in place to do the adjustment, which is also why I needed to get the electrical tested, which is why I needed the alarm switch functional and installed).

So, here's my to-do list (yes, it has gotten to the point that it is very specific) :

• Reassemble the Turn Signal Switch and Ignition Switch
• Install the Tilt/Tele Steering Wheel Components
• Have Someone Clean the Steering Wheel Leather (Not sure how expensive)
• Install the Steering Wheel
• Hood Adjustment
• Plumb the Fuel-Filter-to-Carburetor Lines
• Headlights
  
  • Obtain Ford Probe Headlight Motors (model year 1993 to 1997, about $60 for the set)
  • Wire up a Headlight Control Relay (from Napa, EC23 $15 and BK3007884 $9)
  • Manufacture a Bracket to Hold the Probe Headlight Motors (not sure how much this will cost)
  • Assemble the Electric Headlight System
  • Get the Headlight Bezels and Lids Painted to Match (at $300 a pint for the color coat alone)
  • Install Headlights Themselves
• Probe Electrical Connections (before Adjusting the Door Glass)
• Connect the Battery
• Adjust the Door Glass
• Disconnect the Battery
• Install Door Panels
• Ensure Interior Light Bulbs are in Working Order
• Complete Air Ducts
• Install the Drivers' Dash Panel
• Obtain a Map Pocket ($85) for the Passengers' Side and Install (with Springs)
• Install the Passengers' Side  Dash Panel
• Bolt Down the Center Console
• Bolt Down the Parking Brake Cover
• Install Transmission Tunnel Covers
• Bolt Down the Seats and Test
• Connect the Battery and Test All Electrical Components (EXCEPT FOR STARTER)
• Fill with coolant
• Add Oil and Prime the Oil Pump
• Add a LITTLE Gasoline to the Tank
• Add Gear Oil to the Tremec TKO II
• Add Windshield Washer Fluid
• Lift Rear Wheels into the Air (don't want to have the transmission fail to disengage)
• Connect the Battery
• Put some Gasoline in a Glass cup in Preparation to Test Fire
• Test Fire
• Stop Engine
• Engage Wheels with the Ground
• Start, and Drive a Short Distance (less than a mile)
• Return and Check the Oil
• Raise the Back End
• Run the Car in Gears for 20 Minutes Each (Transmission Break In)
• Drop the Car
• Check the Oil
• DRIVE IT LIKE I STOLE IT

Back to the Corvette - The Steering Column

I started trying to re-assemble the steering column, but didn't get anywhere.  Well, maybe I did.  I started checking the wiper switch, found that it wasn't working as the wiring diagram said it should, and started looking for new ones.  I failed to find one I could buy.

Over the weekend, I was chatting with my father, who asked me, "well, why not just rebuild your switch?  You've just about rebuilt everything else without knowing how it was engineered!"

It took a few days for that to fully sink in, and this morning, I asked myself, "why not?"

I took the switch completely out of the housing (just down to the plastic/contact pieces), and grabbed a drill bit (had to be the right size).  I started to drill the rivets (where you don't drill all the way through, you simply drill far enough into the rivet for it to separate), and used a pocket knife (great edge, not flimsy like an x-acto knife, perfect for prying apart without breaking the surrounding plastics).  That got my contacts off of the plastic frame for the switch.  Other than paint that had gotten into the switch and a wire that someone had cut, my switch was actually in great shape.

I used a wire brush to clean the contacts.

Before installing things, I thought it would be easier to solder in a new chunk of wire in the one that had been clipped.  I broke out the soldering iron, solder, heat shrink tubing, and slapped that puppy back together.  I added the contacts back to the switch frame, placed the eyelets, grabbed the rivets, and popped it all back together.

I needed to test it, but, since my voltmeter was not working (translation: I was too lazy to go buy a new 9v battery), I opted to get a better visual test for this.  I ran down and grabbed my Arduino Nano, connected the common point for the switch connector to ground, and slapped a modified button code onto it that defaulted with a pull-up resistor on three inputs, and three outputs to LED's.  This way, if the wire wasn't connected to ground, the LED would light up.  If it was connected to ground, the LED would turn off.

It gave me a great visual way to ensure that it was connected properly.  Now I can start to figure out the entire reassembly.  It will take some time, but once I get it, I'll have the steering column put back together fairly quickly, and then I can finally do the electrical test before connecting the battery to adjust the windows.  Getting one small step closer!